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Review of Douglas
Laing's Clan Denny Girvan 20 Year Old 1993 Single
Grain Single Cask whisky by Murray Cohen.
I had the opportunity to pick up this
independent bottling of Girvan single grain
single cask whisky while visiting relatives
in Montreal, Quebec. Matured in a single refill
barrel Cask DH 10439, this one was bottled
at 56.7% ABV under Glasgow based independent
bottler Douglas Laing's Clan Denny Aged
Grains Douglas Hamilton Co. label.
The growing interest in Scottish single
grain whisky is becoming something of a
phenomenon and gleaning interest from a
variety of whisky drinkers. Girvan is a
lowland grain whisky distillery located
in South Ayrshire, Scotland and owned by
William Grant & Sons. I highly
recommend this single grain offering.
Murray Cohen's
Tasting Notes:
Colour: Pure Gold.
Nose: Burnt
orange melding into caramelized Vidalia
sweet onion impress immediately. Whirling
smoke is infused with white truffles.
There is a distinct aroma of "gribenes",
i.e., crisp chicken skin cracklings with
fried onions. The latter put a smile on
my face as it was a favorite of mine a half
a century ago in my mother’s kitchen. A
bucket of Southern fried chicken awakens.
Late dark toffee and hazelnut fudge, the
sweetness just oozes out. A burst of
Canadian maple syrup makes an olfactory
appearance.
Taste: Legs like
a pitchfork signal the full-bodied texture.
Mouth-filling, vanilla coats the palate with
a layering of spice. There is a honey
undertow with earthy accents.
Finish:
Long, toffee sandwiched with fine molasses
forms a great tag team with a return of
caramelized onions; the congealed sweetness
is hypnotizing.
With Water:
A few drops of water bring some pistachio
notes on the nose as well as BBQ &
smoked Pacific salmon. The water awakens
the spice in dramatic fashion. Perseveration
of spice and some oak tannin on the
finish. The water actually dissolves
the desirable sweetness. You might want
this one “neat”.
Comment: This
single grain pulls out all the stops. It’s
like experiencing a recipe cookbook from
a number of regions of cuisine especially
on the nose. This 20 year old shows a
level of maturity releasing some pretty
intense aromas and flavors many
funnelled into unique food groups.
Score
94/100
You can find the full current Douglas
Laing whisky range available from specialist
Whisky retailers such as
Master of Malt
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