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SMWS - Too much Sulphur
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albo
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 8:21 am    Post subject: SMWS - Too much Sulphur Reply with quote

Firstly, let me open by saying that I'm venting, so please feel free to ignore / ridicule me as you see fit. However, we are all like minded people and ranting like this to the wife wont get me anywhere.

I have recently, for my birthday in November last year, become a member of the SMWS, which I enjoy, a few of us from work try to go there on the first Friday of the month for the new outturn and a bleather, it's all pleasant enjoyable stuff.

However, and this is the crux of my post, I have noticed that there are a very high number of casks with Sulphur notes in them, I understand it's all down to individual taste and what not, but the number of them coming out at the moment is starting to take the edge off what should be an enjoyable society. They have released 5 'preview drams' from the June outturn and 3 of those have Sulphur notes, I'm starting to think that the society is picking these casks up cheap from the distillery's as they are heavily sulphured and unusable by the distillery's, then selling them on to society members at a premium. I've not drank a great deal of other independent bottlers drams, but I'd guess they wouldn't have that many containing strong notes of sulphur, am I right?

When you pick up a good bottle from the SMWS it's a joy, however, having to pick through the new releases and already disguard half of them is diluting my enjoyment.

Am I just being picky about sulphur? Do any of you fellows have a problem with it? Anyone here in the SMWS think the same, or vehemently disagree with me?

Thanks for listening

Angry from Edinburgh!! Mad
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bifter
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am of the same mind. I love sherried whisky and one of the great advantages of SMWS is the ability to try before you buy. However there is seldom a sherry-casked whisky in the outturn these days that doesn't have some kind of sulphur taint. The worst part is that the Society is now trying to market 'struck matches' and 'soy sauce' notes as desirable, it's like a case of the emperor's new clothes!

The debate about where this taint comes from is complex and some people even claim to like it but it would be good to get some honest information about SMWS and its sherry casks. I believe at least some of them are bought/owned by the Society and sent to the distilleries to be filled? However there is also supposed to be a tasting panel that rejects more casks than it lets through - obviously they are letting through a preponderance of sulphured casks but why? It raises questions about their impartiality in my mind. Were they sold a few duds many years back and how does that bode for the future?

Come renewal I'll have to think hard, especially as my old man now has a membership.
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James T
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a mate who used to get me some bottles through his membership but he didnt renew his membership last year because of the amount of sherry cask bottlings with sulphur notes.

It seems there selection process isnt what it should be or there selection panel has a taste for sulphured whisky, not for me though.
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chrisg
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There does seem to have been more than a few sulphur tainted whiskies released in recent years from the SMWS. You have got to wonder if the selection panel are letting through these casks for the sake of profit. Surely they must be able to pick these sulphur casks out or perhaps they already own the casks so just go ahead and sell them no matter what.
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Braden
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a SMWS sherried Jura once which was awful because of the sulphur and it knd of put me of SMWS bottlings as a whisky which was this bad should not get past a selection panel. On the other hand some of the best whiskies i have tasted have been from the SMWS
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Tom W
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is one man who agrees with you completely, Mr. Jim Murray! he regularly pans SMWS and other sherried bottlings

I'm an SMWS man but haven't had many from sherry casks recently so can't fully articulate but yes I had a Highland Park earlier this year where it was heavily sulphured and I do always wonder to what extent SMWS and other independents get the best casks, especially in the £50 - £100 price range I think distilleries would just keep their best stock...

However, single cask whisky is meant to be different and unique for better or for worse, this is half the magic. you win some, you lose some!
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Quaich1
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find this thread quite interesting as I don't belong to the SMWS and rarely if ever run across single malts with heavy sulfur tones. I do have a collection of varied independent bottlers as well but I can't recall coming across the "sulfur problem" with them.
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bifter
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I had a Highland Park earlier this year where it was heavily sulphured


4.160 by any chance?
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Quaich1
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bifter wrote:
Quote:
I had a Highland Park earlier this year where it was heavily sulphured


4.160 by any chance?


I wonder what vintage of Highland park was involved with the sulfur? I doubt it was the 18 year but who knows.
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bifter
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quaich1 wrote:
I find this thread quite interesting as I don't belong to the SMWS and rarely if ever run across single malts with heavy sulfur tones. I do have a collection of varied independent bottlers as well but I can't recall coming across the "sulfur problem" with them.


Exactly! SMWS is owned (through Glenmorangie) by LVMH, a self-styled luxury brand conglomerate. It is supposed to be at the high-end of the whisky market, selling unique bottlings of quality malt. Something's clearly gone wrong along the way!

In my mind the only good place for the contents of a sulphur-tainted sherry cask is a vat intended for supermarket value brand blended Scotch. I'd be really interested to know the mechanisms by which the SMWS acquires casks (to assess their impartiality) and why on Earth they think it's acceptable behaviour to sell this stuff at top dollar! I may raise this subject next time I'm at the venue - this Friday in fact!
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bifter
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quaich1 wrote:
bifter wrote:
Quote:
I had a Highland Park earlier this year where it was heavily sulphured


4.160 by any chance?


I wonder what vintage of Highland park was involved with the sulfur? I doubt it was the 18 year but who knows.


The 4.160 was 14 years old. This is a good point actually because any whiskies I've had at SMWS that are in excess of 20 years don't have a problem. This lends weight to Jim Murray's assessment that it was the change in the bottling law (and the resultant use of sulphur candles) that created the problem. I have seen discussions of older whiskies online that refer to sulphur tones but it's unclear if this refers to the same influence or to anywhere near the same degree.
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Tom W
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bifter wrote:
Quaich1 wrote:
bifter wrote:
Quote:
I had a Highland Park earlier this year where it was heavily sulphured


4.160 by any chance?


I wonder what vintage of Highland park was involved with the sulfur? I doubt it was the 18 year but who knows.


The 4.160 was 14 years old. This is a good point actually because any whiskies I've had at SMWS that are in excess of 20 years don't have a problem. This lends weight to Jim Murray's assessment that it was the change in the bottling law (and the resultant use of sulphur candles) that created the problem. I have seen discussions of older whiskies online that refer to sulphur tones but it's unclear if this refers to the same influence or to anywhere near the same degree.


yes it was 4.160, very dark dram and a bit off on the sulphur but I do like a good highland park me!

Is using candles in casks an old process and we can expect to see it stop?
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bifter
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom W wrote:
bifter wrote:
Quaich1 wrote:
bifter wrote:
Quote:
I had a Highland Park earlier this year where it was heavily sulphured


4.160 by any chance?


I wonder what vintage of Highland park was involved with the sulfur? I doubt it was the 18 year but who knows.


The 4.160 was 14 years old. This is a good point actually because any whiskies I've had at SMWS that are in excess of 20 years don't have a problem. This lends weight to Jim Murray's assessment that it was the change in the bottling law (and the resultant use of sulphur candles) that created the problem. I have seen discussions of older whiskies online that refer to sulphur tones but it's unclear if this refers to the same influence or to anywhere near the same degree.


yes it was 4.160, very dark dram and a bit off on the sulphur but I do like a good highland park me!

Is using candles in casks an old process and we can expect to see it stop?


I can recommend the latest HP release (confusingly enough 4.159!). I thought it was the best of the May outturn that I tasted.

As for sulphur I've been trying to get a handle on the issue for the last six months so I would be glad of more info myself (anyone?) but this is what I have gathered so far. Brimstone candles have a wick dipped in sulphur and are regularly used in making sweet wines - a candle is burnt in the barrel prior to filling and the sulphur then stuns the yeast, arresting fermentation before all the sugar is converted to alcohol. I don't know now widespread this practice was/is in sherry production but this is besides the point really. The real issue is that, prior to the '90s sherry was traditionally shipped out in the cask, bottled in a plant somewhere and the casks went to the distilleries. The laws then changed, requiring bottling to be performed in an area around Jerez. To preserve the emptied casks from the heat the bodegas sterilised them using sulphur candles. Jim Murray claims there was never a problem until this point but some disagree, pointing to the way the casks are treated (as opposed to bourbon). I guess only someone who has been drinking whisky for more than the last twenty years (such as Jim Murray!) or those in the industry would be able to attest to such a change.

Some industry figures also claim it is perfectly possible to avoid sulphury casks, see the excellent article below, ironically enough on the SMWS Web site! This begs the question why the SMWS have this problem but the article seems to suggest that many people can't even detect it or just accept it as another characteristic, like peat (I would emphatically disagree). The use of candles has now ceased, apparently, but casks are expensive and are likely to be used again and again, so this problem may not be fully eradicated even in our lifetimes!

http://www.smws.co.uk/your-society-adventure/article-archive/A_matter_of_taste.html

One last point of note is that Jim Murray has written for the SMWS magazine, Unfiltered, since 2008. The latest edition included his last column. This could be complete coincidence though!
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bifter
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started a poll to see what attitudes are towards sulphur - I may well be in a minority who find it objectionable but I hope not:

http://www.scotchmaltwhisky.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2365

PS Mods, can we have a boke (puke) smiley?

Edit: A clear pattern is emerging. Perhaps a fifth or so of people have never detected sulphur, the rest so far have unanimously declared their distaste for it.
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bifter
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to dredge this issue up again but I wanted to add some info. The poll seems pretty conclusive that sulphur is an unwelcome infuence (83%), not one person indicated that they actually enjoy it - I thought at least some would, e.g. fans of Mortlach?

Anyway, while at SMWS, I discussed the issue with bar staff. They said the panel process was pretty neutral and the line up of tasters varied with many people from eclectic backgrounds (e.g. baristas). There is no pressure on them to pass any particular casks but it seems some of the panel particularly like sulphur notes. Apparently these casks have been selling well too! I'm still not that happy with the sheer volume of sulphury sherry casks and I have also written to the society about the issue. I was told the complaint would be passed on to those who chair the panels so we'll see if it's taken onboard! Fingers crossed...
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